Q1. I received a
quote for concrete surfacing of my crawlspace, and they
said mold would grow beneath the system and cause air quality
concerns. Is this true?
Q2. During heavy rains I get standing
water in my crawlspace. What should I do?
Q3. Can the cracks in my foundation
wall be repaired?
Q4. I have cinder block walls that
leak water. Will the Emeseal System address this problem?
Q5. I have fresh air vents in my crawl
space. Once the EmeSeal System is installed, should I close
them?
Q6. What's the best way to close exiting
crawl space vents?
Q7. What should I do if I get water
on top of the EmeSeal floor?
Q8. How do I test for radon gas?
Q9. How are voids sealed around pipes,
support posts, etc…?
Q10. My block foundation walls "weep"
water during heavy rains. Is it OK to cover them?
Q11. I have block foundation walls.
The top of the wall has hollow cavities. How do I stop moisture
and radon gas from escaping from this area?
Q12. I have no insulation in the crawlspace
now. How much R-value is needed?
Q13. Can I use the waterproof insulating
blanket to insulate the rim joist (wood area on top of foundation
wall)?
Q14. I have fiberglass insulation
between my floor joist (crawlspace ceiling). Should it be
removed?
Q15. Once the Emeseal System is installed
and my crawlspace is clean and dry, is it a good idea to
insulate between the floor joist (crawlspace ceiling)?
Q16. My floor above the crawlspace
area always seems to be cold. Will the Emeseal System help?
Q17. Wouldn't it be better to insulate
the floor joist and then install the EmeCeiling Heat Shield?
Q18. Do you recommend attaching a
fan to the ventilation pipe to "suck out"
any radon gas?
Q19. What about a power fan system to "suck
out" the humid, moldy air in the crawlspace, instead
of installing the EmeSeal System?
Q20. How about installing a power fan system after installing the EmeSeal System?
Q1. I received a quote for concrete surfacing of my crawlspace,
and they said mold would grow beneath the system and cause
air quality concerns. Is this true?
A. No. The Emeseal System prevents oxygen from ever
reaching the mold, eliminating future growth, and completely
divorces mold, mildew, moisture and soil gases beneath the
system from the crawlspace air.
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Q2. During heavy rains I get standing
water in my crawlspace. What should I do?
A. Prior to installing the EmeSeal System, you will
first need to install a sump pit, sump pump and drain-tile
to address this problem. Emecole offers a complete line
of quality EmeSump pumps and battery back-up systems.
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Q3. Can the cracks in my foundation
wall be repaired?
A. Yes. Emecole has been manufacturing and supplying
contractors in the U.S. and Canada with epoxy and urethane
resins for foundation crack repair for more than 20 years.
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Q4. I have cinder block walls that
leak water. Will the EmeSeal System address this problem?
A. Yes. Wall seepage is directed beneath the system
and drains harmlessly into the earth.
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Q5. I have fresh air vents in my crawl
space. Once the EmeSeal System is installed, should I close
them?
A. It depends. If you have a gas-fired appliance
in your home (i.e. furnace or hot water heater), you should
not close the vents without first checking with a licensed
H.V.A.C. contractor. If the appliance is drawing air from
the crawlspace, closing the vents could create a dangerous
carbon monoxide problem. Otherwise, by all means do close
the vents. This will prevent moisture during summer months
and cold air during winter months from entering the crawlspace.
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Q6. What's the best way to close existing
crawl space vents?
A. From the inside. Simply apply moldable roll adhesive
around the vent opening, cut a piece of waterproof insulating
blanket and stick into place with foil side facing out.
For colder climates, use two layers.
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Q7. What should I do if I get water
on top of the EmeSeal floor?
A. Use a screwdriver to puncture a hole in the liner,
and the drain fabric will allow the water to seep out. Wipe
area clean and patch with seaming tape.
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Q8. How do I test for radon gas?
A. Simple home test kits are available at most hardware
stores for approximately $30.
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Q9. How are voids sealed around pipes,
support posts, etc…?
A. Our moldable roll adhesive is perfect for this
-- simply mold into place. (It will never dry out and is
non-toxic and safe to handle without gloves).
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Q10. My block foundation walls "weep"
water during heavy rains. Is it OK to cover them?
A. Absolutely. However, we recommend drilling "weep
holes" in the bottom course of blocks prior to installing
the insulating blanket. Using a quarter-inch masonry bit,
drill holes in each block along the base of the wall. This
will allow water within the wall cavities to drain harmlessly
beneath the system.
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Q11. I have block foundation walls.
The top of the wall has hollow cavities. How do I stop moisture
and radon gas from escaping from this area?
A. Attach insulation blanket to silplate (wood plank
that lies flat on top of wall) instead of foundation wall
with moldable roll adhesive. This will seal the top of the
block walls, preventing moisture and radon gas within the
wall from escaping into the crawlspace.
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Q12. I have no insulation in the crawlspace
now. How much R-value is needed?
A. We recommend R-5 for walls in mild climates and
R-10 to R-20 combined with the EmeCeiling Heat Shield for
colder climates.
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Q13. Can I use the waterproof insulating
blanket to insulate the rim joist (wood area on top of foundation
wall)?
A. Yes. Simply cut and stick into place with a small
piece of moldable roll adhesive.
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Q14. I have fiberglass insulation
between my floor joists (crawlspace ceiling). Should it
be removed?
A. Yes. Fiberglass insulation is a food source for
mold and mildew. It traps moisture and causes wood decay.
Never leave old insulation in place. Wear protective clothing
and a respirator while you remove and discard the insulation
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Q15. Once the Emeseal System is installed
and my crawlspace is clean and dry, is it a good idea to
insulate between the floor joists (crawlspace ceiling)?
A. No. Just like a basement, the most effective method
of insulating the crawlspace is to insulate the outside
walls, stopping the cold from ever entering the crawlspace.
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Q16. My floor above the crawlspace
area always seems to be cold. Will the Emeseal System help?
A. Yes. The Emeseal System waterproof insulating
blanket will help keep your floors warmer and reduce energy
costs. However, installing the optional EmeCeiling Heat
Shield is the most effective method of keeping floors comfortably
warm.
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Q17. Wouldn't it be better to insulate
the floor joists and then install the EmeCeiling Heat Shield?
A. No. To reflect radiant heat, you must have an
air space.
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Q18. Do you recommend attaching a
fan to the ventilation pipe to "suck out"
any radon gas?
A. No. This should never be needed. However, if this
were done, we recommend that only an EPA-registered radion
mitigation contractor do the work. Also, note that if a
fan were attached, the vent pipe must be extended above
the roof line of the home.
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Q19. What about a power fan system to "suck
out" the humid, moldy air in the crawlspace, instead
of installing the EmeSeal System?
A. This practice has been attempted in many forms
for many years. The problem is that all these systems "pull
a vacuum" on the crawlspace, actually accelerating
the entry of moisture and soil gases. Simply put, they do
not work in unsealed crawl spaces and often make
matters worse.
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Q20. How about installing a power fan system after installing the EmeSeal System?
A. Absolutely. Once the crawl space floor and walls are properly sealed, "pulling a vacuum" (creating negative pressure) in the crawlspace will reverse the natural air flow and further enhance the air quality throughout the home. We highly recommend AirTech Professional Crawl Space Ventilators -- call us now at 1(800)844-2713 for more details on AirTech Ventilators.
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